| FEATURE | OCTOBER 2000 V.64, N. 10 | ||
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What is a 5.13 Climber?
Understanding Rock Climbing
By ARNOUT HYDE JR. ![]() West Virginia offers some of the finest rock climbing in the eastern United States. The stunning sandstone conglomerate cliffs of the New River Gorge in Fayette County yield hundreds of routes of all degrees of difficulty. Seneca Rocks in Pendleton County provides multi-pitch climbing on a Tuscacora sandstone fin. The U.S. military used Seneca Rocks during World War II to train troops in mountaineering before the invasion of Italy. ![]() Usually, climbers making roped ascents of rock routes climb in pairs. One person "leads" the climb by climbing first and placing "protection," or "clipping" already fixed bolts. While the leader is climbing, his or her partner manages the rope that the leader has tied onto his/her own or partner's harness via a piece of equipment called a "belay device." If the leader falls, the "belayer" uses the belay device to stop the rope from running and thereby catches the leader's fall. When the leader reaches the top of the pitch (one rope length or less), he or she secures the rope to an anchor. The leader then becomes the belayer and belays his/her partner as he/she climbs the route and "clean," or remove, any non-fixed gear that the leader placed. Rating Climbs![]() All climbing routes receive a number from 5.0 to 5.14d to describe their difficulty. The 5 indicates that the class of travel is indeed climbing that requires technical movements and safety equipment (class 1 travel = walking, class 2 = hiking on loose terrain, class 3 = scrambling on challenging terrain, class 4 = intermittent climbing, scrambling, and hiking on challenging terrain). The number after the decimal point denotes the approximate difficulty, with .0 being the easiest of routes and .14d being the most difficult. Ratings are, of course, subjective, but provide a general guideline to a route's challenge level. Types of Climbing
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